Video Research London
Gimbal & Camera conenction
After the gimbal arrived (18th of Feb) I quickly set it up, balanced it and realised that apart from seemingly charging the camera, the focus wheel and the screen of the camera aren’t working. I went on youtube to find out if anyone had the same issue I stumbled upon this video:
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“Setting up the Fuji XT3 and the DJI Ronin S” - Maine Mountain Media
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Which explained that I only need to update both devices (both the camera and the gimbal) for them to be compatible.
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I first had to download the DJI Pro assistant for Ronnin on my Laptop and then proceed to plug the gimbal into it for the Software to recognise the gimbal.
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This then allowed me to update it from the laptop.
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For the X-T3, I had to download the Fujifilm Camera Remote app on my phone and then connect it to the camera via Bluetooth so then I can download the firmware onto the camera.
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“How to Update your Fujifilm XT3 Firmware Using your Phone | XT3 3.20 Firmware Update”
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Furthermore, I had to change the connection setting in the menu of the camera to USB auto for it to start working
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After doing all of that everything seemed to sync up immediately with the included USB-C cable that connects the Gimbal to the camera.
As most gimbals are designed to use with 2 hands and while travelling around the cities it would be inconvenient to need to unload all the gear before filming every shot. So I have decided to mount the gimbal case to the bottom of my bag with my bag's included strap buckle. This function usually is intended for tripods but I thought I could hook the strap around the case handle so I wouldn't need to hold it while traveling.
What I’ve Learnt:
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Shoot at a higher framerate than your timeline so you can play around with slow motion
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(60 frames per second stretched to 30 = half the speed)
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have a subject in your video
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Large Sweeping motions around the subject
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Retime controls option to change speed of clip dynamically
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Smooth out the curve
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Use motion blur on Davinci
“Fuji F-Log Beginner's Guide + my F-Log LUT || Settings for F-Log || Color Grade F-Log” - John Stambaugh
What I’ve learnt:
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F-log is Rec.2020
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Standard is Rec.709
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Use [Option + 1] to copy and [Command + 1] to paste the colour grade
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Use gamma for temperature adjustments
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Advised to have highlights at 896 in colour scope
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It's okay to use a template (LUTs) as a guide and branch from it to fit the theme of the video.
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I will be sure to use this video as a reference when I start colour grade my own cinematic short film
“How to Film Yourself | Tips for Better Solo B-Roll” - Jake Frew
What I’ve Learnt:
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Film way more footage of multiple different angles of the same area
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Start with an establishing shot
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Use keyframes to fake camera motion
“How to Film a CINEMATIC SEQUENCE”
- Alex Gasaway
What I’ve Learnt:
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Focus on movements
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Capture emotion
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Because I already have a theme in mind, I would look out for people who are showing emotion related to the theme to amplify the theme itself.
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Having things in the foreground makes the shot more dynamic
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Use in-camera transitions.
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Use a different variety of framerates with the shots.
“The SECRET To SHOOTING GOOD B ROLL - A Behind The Scenes Demonstration” - Sean Kitching
What I’ve Learnt:
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Shoot with a story in mind
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When shooting establishing shots, Film other elements around the area that may enhance what the area feels like.
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Take multiple wide establishing shots
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Shoot multiple focal points
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This may be a challenge as I only have 1 lens but I will have to make it with what I have.
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​I have a couple of ideas to play on the strengths of the low aperture given by the Sigma 16mm F1.4 which will allow more variations of shots I can use.
- Also having subtle movement in the shot may add more life to it so I will be sure to try during the test day planned.​
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ND Filter research
Going back to my Pre-FMP research, one other important piece of equipment that I will have to get is an ND filter. To abbreviate, if I were to want to get a shot with a wider aperture (doing this will make the image have a burier background) the exposure will become higher, therefore, making the image too bright for my liking. An ND filter manually brightens the image so I can open the aperture wider to get those shots without sacrificing the image being too overexposed.
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With that in mind I’ve gone ahead to look for some ND filter reviews to see what is good in terms of its pricing.
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“$249 vs $59 Variable ND Filter Comparison” - Peter Lindgren
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What I’ve Learnt:
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The Polar Pro is significantly more expensive than the JJC
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The vignetting from the JJC ND filter is determined by the focal length of the lens (the larger the focal length the more pronounced the vignetting)
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Because I will be shooting all of my shots with a 16mm which is a really wide lens, I will keep an eye out for this and adjust the ND filter accordingly during the shoot.
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The Polar Pro Variable ND filter can’t adjust darker than the JJC ND FIlter
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This gives less flexibility on what shots I can take on the shoot in case of the sun is too bright
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The JJC is just a little bit warmer than the Polar Pro but it doesn’t drastically alter the image
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Overall I feel it is worth getting the JJC filter even with its small drawbacks because of the overall quality it brings compared to the price that it offers.
